Masonry and prefabricated fireplaces can be fueled by wood, natural gas, biomass and propane fuel sources. Ventless Fireplaces (duct free/room-venting fireplaces) are fueled by either gel, liquid propane, bottled gas or natural gas. In the United States, some states and local counties have laws restricting these types of fireplaces. They must be properly sized to the area to be heated. There are also air quality control issues due to the amount of moisture they release into the room air, and oxygen sensor and carbon monoxide sensors are safety essentials. Direct vent fireplaces are fueled by either liquid propane or natural gas. They are completely sealed from the area that is heated, and vent all exhaust gasses to the exterior of the structure. A wide range of accessories are used with fireplaces, which range between countries, regions, and historical periods. For the interior, common in recent Western cultures include grates, fireguards, log boxes, andirons, pellet baskets, and fire dogs, all of which cradle fuel and accelerate burning. A grate (or fire grate) is a frame, usually of iron bars, to retain fuel for a fire. Heavy metal firebacks are sometimes used to capture and re-radiate heat, to protect the back of the fireplace, and as decoration. Fenders are low metal frames set in front of the fireplace to contain embers, soot and ash. For fireplace tending, tools include pokers, bellows, tongs, shovels, brushes and tool stands. Other wider accessories can include log baskets, companion sets, coal buckets, cabinet accessories and more.
Underfloor heating influences the radiant exchange by thermally conditioning the interior surfaces with low temperature long wave radiation The heating of the surfaces suppresses body heat loss resulting in a perception of heating comfort. As defined by ANSI/ASHRAE Standard 55 – Thermal Environmental Conditions for Human Occupancy, thermal comfort is, “that condition of mind which expresses satisfaction with the thermal environment and is assessed by subjective evaluation.” Relating specifically to underfloor heating, thermal comfort is influenced by floor surface temperature and associated elements such as radiant asymmetry, mean radiant temperature and operative temperature Research by Nevins, Rohles, Gagge, P. Ole Fanger et al. show that humans at rest with clothing typical of light office and home wear, exchange over 50% of their sensible heat via radiation.
Modern underfloor heating systems use either electrical resistance elements (“electric systems”) or fluid flowing in pipes (” hydronic systems”) to heat the floor. NRC researcher from Canada installs underfloor heating in his home and later remarks, “Decades later it would be identified as a passive solar house. Radiant floor heating, a no-brainer if you’re building a new house, can be retrofitted to existing homes, although installation costs will be higher.
For new construction, a hydronic radiant floor system is likely to cost more than forced hot air (ducts and registers) or hydronic systems (baseboard radiators). In addition, hydronic radiant heat is more efficient than other systems because it uses relatively low water temperatures to heat your home. There are also radiant electric floor heating pads that can be installed under laminate and other floating floors, such as engineered hardwood.
Radiant floors are heated either with electric resistance cables or hot water flowing inside tubing. Underfloor heating requires lower running temperatures than other emitters such as radiators so have you considered a heat pump? At present we use a multi-fuel fire with back boiler and radiators, and are thinking about wood pellet or logs, but have no experience with underfloor heating.
Should a heat pump supplied underfloor heating system be more cost effective to operate than a gas fired system bearing in mind the large electrical consumption for the compressor. The solution is to leave underfloor heating on 24/7 in the ‘heating season’, which doesn’t sound very efficient, but as the system can be programmed to maintain a minimum temperature of 16°C, it need never start from cold. The original self build must-have, underfloor heating offers an effective, efficient heating medium that’s out of sight and makes no demands on wall space.
The system maintains a minimum floor temperature during spring and fall when heating may not be required, but warm floors are still desired. Radiant floor heating is compatible with all types of floor coverings, even hardwood, so you can have the type of floor that you want. It used to be that floor heating was something that could only be installed in new homes, and was usually just put in the basement and run off the hot water heater.
In a major study, EU-RAY (European Radiant Heating & Cooling Association), concluded that compared with a variety of low temperature radiator (LTR) combinations, Radiant Floor Heating was: WarmlyYours Radiant Heating provides a free Heat Loss Calculator that allows you to enter some information about your room and instantly receive a report that details whether or not radiant floor heat can be your primary heat source and how much it would cost to operate. You’ve decided to install an electric radiant heating system under your bathroom floor.
Underfloor heating is comfortable and efficient, but the costs to install it in an existing home can be prohibitive. Electricity or hot water flows through them and warms the floor through conduction. These systems have either heating cables or water pipes set in the floor.
Fireplaces are actually quite efficient as long as a slow-combustion wood stove is used to burn well-seasoned firewood. The thermostat in reverse cycle air conditioners allows you to adjust and keep your home at the perfect temperature, which means you don’t waste energy on overheating. Customers have reported savings of between 30-60% over gas, oil, electric and wood burning systems (US DOE/NAHB studies have shown a 33% savings over heat pumps).
Hot-water heat pumps and even ground-source or geothermal heat pumps are very efficient (and therefore cheap) to run but in the case of ground-source heating/geothermal, a large upfront cost. Nothing ugly in sight – Unlike radiators or chunky wall-mounted heat pumps, you can’t see anything with underfloor heating. Frees up wall space – No space is taken up on your walls because underfloor heating is installed under the floor of your home.
Efficient, even heat – With underfloor heating you don’t get heat blowing in just one direction. This isn’t the case with underfloor heating where hard floor surfaces are warm on your feet. From wall to wall and from floor to ceiling – hydronic underfloor heating ensures your family is comfortable and warm throughout your home.
Request a Quote on home heating solutions, home cooling solutions, indoor air quality, hot water solutions and more products from ClimateCare. A hydronic heating system also contains three main components: a boiler, which is used to heat the water; in-floor piping, or baseboards and radiators, which is installed against an outside wall; and a pump, which is used to circulate water through the pipes, to the radiator and back again. However, the important part – how they help you stay warm when during those frosty days – is essentially the same: by using either electricity or gas to heat the water.
Resistance to temperature fluctuations – ceramic tiles do not react to slight variations in temperature, so placing them over underfloor heating is completely safe. And – as we have already stated – it perfectly conducts heat, effectively cooperating with underfloor heating systems. However, natural wood is an insulator that reduces the effectiveness of underfloor heating.
Underfloor heating, installed under the surface of the whole house or apartment, provides comfortable condition throughout the whole year.
A fireplace is a structure made of brick, stone or metal designed to contain a fire. Fireplaces are used for the relaxing ambiance they create and for heating a room. Modern fireplaces vary in heat efficiency, depending on the design.
Historically they were used for heating a dwelling, cooking, and heating water for laundry and domestic uses. A fire is contained in a firebox or firepit; a chimney or other flue allows exhaust to escape. A fireplace may have the following: a foundation, a hearth, a firebox, a mantelpiece; a chimney crane (used in kitchen and laundry fireplaces), a grate, a lintel, a lintel bar,home overmantel, a damper, a smoke chamber, a throat, and a flue.
On the exterior there is often a corbeled brick crown, in which the projecting courses of brick act as a drip course to keep rainwater from running down the exterior walls. A cap, hood, or shroud serves to keep rainwater out of the exterior of the chimney; rain in the chimney is a much greater problem in chimneys lined with impervious flue tiles or metal liners than with the traditional masonry chimney, which soaks up all but the most violent rain. Some chimneys have a spark arrestor incorporated into the crown or cap.
Organizations like the Environmental Protection Agency and the Washington Department of Ecology warn that, according to various studies, fireplaces can pose a significant health risk. The EPA writes “Smoke may smell good, but it’s not good for you.”